Walking the Camino in Spring

The best part about walking the camino in the springtime have to be the weather and the flowers you see along the way. With birds chirping and good weather most of the way, what more do we need?



Flowers are most abundant in Navarra.



In all colors...



In patches...



Or in the fields...



Ummmm... poppies.



The canvas of life!



Even the drier mesatas are teaming with flowers this time of the year.



Imagine walking past this row of beauties...



In the hills (after Majarin).



And finally ferns growing in the wetter Galicia.

Death in the Camino

No, it is not the title to the latest triller novel set in the Camino. The sad fact is that people do pass on while walking the camino.


On the first day of my camino I witness a memorial dedicated to a Japanese pilgrim.


There were more to come, a German pilgrim...


And an English pilgrim...

While we try not to be reminded of our mortality, the camino has a way to remind us that we have to live in the present, if we are to live at all.

On Signs and Waymarkers

You can't get lost on the Camino. Clam shells, signs, assembled rocks, and yellow arrows adorned the whole way in the Camino Frances, especially the ubiquitous yellow arrows sprayed along side the road, pavement, trees and anything the paint can stick to.

Here are some of them that I have collected along my Camino.



The first sign I encountered right after Roncesvalles directing me to the path, away from the road.




Claim shells on the fences.



Even on the wall of this house.



Saint James (cute) outside the gate of this house.



Nice caricature above the gate with yellow arrow in the middle.



A ad-hoc one done out of wood strips and rocks.



In Logroño, the shells looks like a bell.



Rocks piled on top of each other. This is actually a pagan practice in the pre-Christian past where one takes a rock from one place and another to appease the pagan gods or spirit.



A gold (plated) claim shell.



This one is probably from the kind townfolks of that area.



On the paved road for peregrinos to make sure we don't walk on the highway in the background.



This sign promotes the Camino as part of the European Culture Heritage.



A yellow arrow below a claim shell on the wall of the chapel with the path on the right.



In Palencia, they have signboards promoting the places of interests along the Camino.



Another sign promoting the Camino as part of the European Culture Heritage.



This one has to remind me that I still have a long to go!



The most common waymarker. This one's a bit worn out.



Wooden Crucifix along the fence.




Arrows and shell leading the way to Ponferrada.



In the albergue at Ponferrada. The waymarkers has begun to give the distance to Santiago from here.



The yellow arrows welcoming you to O Cebreiro.



Bridge near Samos with claim shells.



This is from the 100 kilometer mark before Santiago, probably the reason why there is graffiti on this one .



Unorthodox red claim shell in Galicia (most of them are yellow). Check out ferns around the marker. You can tell this is a wet region.



And the final waymarker at Monto do Gozo (6.144 km before Santiago).



I should be able to see the cathedral from Monto do Gozo. They lied. It was blocked by trees.

Culture and Lifestyle

Josephine's 4 attempts on the camino reminded me of something a friend who once told me...

"When it happen once, it is an incident. Twice, a coincidence. Three times, it a habit. Four times, it becomes a lifestyle."

(One down, three more to go!)

A Basque Wedding

Navarra, the first region in the Camino is part of the Basque country that stretches between France and Spain.



(the sign either says Buen Camino or please shut the gate so the cows won't escaped, I think?)

Most of the people here are Basque, and some of them speak this language which has no relationship with any Indo-European language (like Spanish or French). No one knows their origin although they are believed to be the first Europeans.

In Pamplona, I witnessed a Basque wedding.



(hoops!)



(here comes the bride!)



(The drum music provide by a couple of sticks on the 3 planks of wood)



(a young girl dances with her legs in circular motion right in front of the couple... for good luck?)

Interview with a Peregrina from Canada: Josephine

1. How did you hear about the Camino de Santiago?

Long time ago when I was on my regular visit to our local Art Gallery there was a Spanish Artist from Toronto showing her oil paintings. They were all Spanish Images showing mountains and beautiful valleys. In the center of the showroom on a large stand under glass there was another display. I was fascinated by what I saw. There were very simple things. There were some cockle shells and a couple of note books. One looked more like a diary, and there were some photos. I was delighted with what I could read in the open pages of the diary. It talked about this long 800km walk. I was thinking then ,that would be something for me. I was immediately taken by all this so started a 3 year research.

2. What made you do it?

What made me do it ? My reason for walking the Camino was for my sister Helena. She had just passed away and I needed help to get over that pain. The Camino did help.

3. Four attempts! There is a lot of determination right there. You must be elated when you finally completed it on your 4th try.

Yes, I'm so pleased with having finally done the whole Camino de Santiago de Compostela. It was also important to do it alone.

4. The disappointment in the first 3 attempts must be devastating. How do you cope with it?

I'm only disappointed with my first attempt at doing the camino. A woman I knew casually wished to go with me. So I agreed but it was the biggest mistake I could have done. I never talk much about my first try because it was so nasty. We did do only 450 km then. The second and third try was with my daughter. She never got enough time off work so we did as much as possible.That walk was just great and we did 300 + 500 km.

(Wow, Josephine's Camino in 4 tries covers 450+300+500+around 800 which is just over 2000 km!)

5. For someone with a small stature, the feat must be extremely arduous. What do you do to prepare for the journey?

To prepare for the camino I go for long walks daily. I learned to train as a road runner. Yes Evan I used to run a lot. I used to train for Marathons and Triathlons. So every morning at 5 am I go out there and walk 10 km. I do 5km make a hairpin turn around and walk back home. This will prevent hip injuries. My husband then has prepared for me a lovely breakfast when I get in. Three weeks before going to Spain I walk with a full backpack. My backpack never exceed 10kg. I also swim 5 times a week and do a little weight training.

6. Any advise for would-be pilgrims?

My advice to would-be Pilgrims is that training is an absolute must. It will prevent injuries. I already train now for my next year walk. Also wear your favorite shoes and bring an extra pair in your Backpack.

(This is where I suffer the most! I am lucky that I managed to complete my camino -ed)

7. Finally, I see that you do art work on the Camino theme in your spare time. Can you share with us what are the things that you have created?

My art work has changed a lot since walking the Camino. Paintings of mountains in watercolor are right now a priority. On pottery I like to leave imprints of the camino shell. I actually use my own shell to press into the raw clay. I sell once a year In September at our park in Bright's Grove. I feel so privileged to have gotten to know and walk the Camino. The Camino has attached itself to my soul. I wish for everyone who tries it , to come out of it feeling good about themselves and their achivements. Buen Camino.

Camino on Horseback

The Camino can be completed either on foot, with a bicycle, or on horseback. According to the Pilgrim Office's May 2006 statistics, 56 people have done it on horseback.

I've walk for most of the camino without seeing anyone on horseback even though I have seen horseshoe tracks along the path in the camino.



Finally in Galicia, I saw these two horses that looked like they could be pereheeeenos! No humans in sight. They are probably having their lunch at the farmhouse behind.



The next morning, I found them, sleeping in the van. Uhmm.. the humans, not the horses as you can see below.



They told me these horses needed to be groom regularly, and on average only gives 35 km per day. Ha! That's not much more than a day's walk for a pilgrim.

Three days before arriving to Santiago, I suffered from a huge pain in my ankle which I believe to be tendonlitis. I met this horse here who is extremely friendly.



She walked with me along the wire barrier and sticks her head out many times for me to pat her. It looks as if she can feel my pain, and wanted to console me. I am so touched. If I hadn't grow up in a city, I would probably be working with horses. Such majestic creatures.

Walking with My Donkey

An Englishman Mike told me about this book during the Camino. You can already see the humor just from the cover of this book.And today I just received an email from Amazon with regrets that this book is out of stock and they will refund my money. Noooooooo!

I guess it must be tough to walk the Camino with a donkey. There is probably a reason for the English idiom "as stubborn as a mule". In addition, they need to be fed and be taken care of. Still, it would be really nice not to be burden with carrying all that weight.

Donkey! Donkey! Would you like to carry my backpack?

Interview with a Peregrina from France: Bénédicte

A good way to understand the Camino is to have other people who have done it talk about their experience. The first in what I hope to be a series of interviews is Bénédicte from France. Bénédicte also has her own Camino website 'La Coquille' (link also in the sidebar).

1. Why the Camino de Santiago?

When I was ill in the hospital, in my bed, I heard a voice telling me "Stand up and walk! ". I didn't believe in God and I thought I was becoming crazy! When I returned home, I watched the TV and saw a report on Santiago. I thought to myself, " I must go there!". My family was initially very worried about me but they let me go. In the beginning, I walked just a little, but after that I became a good walker!

(Yeah, like a gazelle! -ed)

2. You have done the French segment from Le Puy en Velay to Pampelune (Pamplona) and now you have completed the Spanish segment from Pampelune (Pamplona) to Santiago de Compostela. How would you compare the difference between the 2 segments?

On the french part, there were few people. I walked alone very often, but I loved it. But on the spainish way, there were many pilgrims from abroad, and I had to speak English. It has been very difficult for me as I wanted to be alone with my thoughts. But I was alone for such a long time that I realized that being with people was good for me. Even the last 15 days when I walked with Rosalinda, I really enjoyed it!

3. What is your biggest discovery you have made after you embark on your camino?

My biggest discovery has been every people I met along the way , and especially with the ones I am very close to (like you !!!). I like listening to their life, and telling them mine. There were pilgrims who believed in God, and other which didn't, and I could ask them my question about religion and every other things. I was always the first to speak about God and nobody laughed at me! They listened me seriously.

4. Finally one more question, how do you keep your complexion so smooth in the harsh outdoors of the Camino. What is your secret?

It was easy for me to be in good mood and to smile and laugh, because everyone next to me were very nice and interesting and I was so happy to walk with them, and to realize this wondeful experience! Don't forget that every evening we drank "Vino Tinto" and that was really good for the mood! And don't forget also that I'm from France, the famous wine country!

(I'll drink to that! -ed)

5. No seriously, what is your secret?

My beauty secret is the new L'Oréal cream for my face!

(Aha!!!)

At Santiago de Compostela

What next after arriving? I found the area around the Cathedral full of life.



Bagpipes music (very Celtic) fills the street.



Bands playing.



Peregrinos dancing, hehehe.

But that's not all. Souvenir shops and stalls selling to pilgrims and non-pilgrims alike like this one below.



Sorry lady, didn't mean to take your behind (you moved!).



Got myself buttons of the shell and the yellow arrow.



And a t-shirt with the yellow waymarker to the major places from Roncesvalles to Santiago de Compostela.



And finally food, glorious food!

Arriving at Santiago de Compostela

On the 26th May 2006 at around 3 pm I finally arrived at my destination, in front of the Cathedral at Santiago de Compostela.



At this spot where the photo was taken is where I broke down (in elation and pain). This is the same spot 4 years ago that I had vowed to come back as a pilgrim. It is impossible not to get emotional. I believe it is the same for all pilgrims.

I have decided to complete the journey by going into cathedral with my backpack and walking stick before heading down to the pilgrim office to get my compostela.



First stop, the Potico of Glory. Built in the 12th century, pilgrims over the years have been leaving their mark from their hands that a depression had form around a particular area in the pillar.



That's the spot. Another tradition is to knock one's head on the other side of the pillar to ward off accidents.



The botafumeiro hanging in the middle of the Cathedral. These were swung across the cathedral with burning incense to rid of the smell from the stinking pilgrims during the middle ages. Now, it is just a ritual during the mass (and in case there there are still foul smelling pilgrims).



Next, down in the basement to the tomb of Santiago (St. James) where his remains is supposedly kept.



Then up to the second floor to embrace his statue from behind.



With my credencial from Roncesvalles, together with the stamps from the places along my camino as proof of my camino, I finally got my compostela. (shells not included)



This one goes out to Evanum (all first name are in latin).

After the pilgrim office, I started looking for a place to stay for the night. Later, as I put my backpack down in the pension it suddenly dawn upon me that I am no longer a pilgrim. I had became a tourist in Santiago de Compostela.

Religious Destination: Santiago de Compostela (Video)

(Source: Unesco)

Interestingly, the video was produced by NHK (Japan). The dialogue is in English.

The video on the site is slow, and it is in the Windows Media format. I took the liberty to upload it to YouTube. Now it is more accessible and faster.

Statistics on the Camino

Statistics on the Camino de Santiago for May 2006 is out!

(via Archicompostela)

Click on the clam shell followed by the flag of your language.

What? Of the 6524 foreigners, they have accounted for only 4932. What happen to the other 1592? The Brazilian? The Countries in Eastern Europe? And me, probably the only one from Singapore.

Anyway, they should do proper statistics on the countries. The United Nations has 192 members. FIFA has 208 members (wow, more than the UN). How many members does the Camino de Santiago have?

Anyway, here are some of the stats!

During the month of May 2006, 9.986 pilgrims were received at the Pilgrim’s Office. The number of pilgrims in the year 2005 during the same period was 9.306.Of those pilgrims, 3.866 were women (38,71%) and 6.120 men (61,29%). 8.158 pilgrims arrived on foot (81,69 %), 1.769 by bicycle (17,71%), 56 on horseback (0.56%) and three pilgrims on wheel-chair.

Pilgrims’ Age.

1.597 pilgrims were younger than 30 years old (15,99%); 5.921 were between 30 and 60 years old (59,29%); 2.468 were aged above 60 years old (24,71%).

Pilgrims’ Nationality.

Spanish: 3.462 (34,66 %).
Foreigners: 6,524 (65,33%). Most of the pilgrims come from the following countries: Germany with 1.408 (21,58%); France with 1.093 (16,75%); Italy with 727 (11,14%); Austria with 319 (4,88%); The Nederland’s with 295 (4,52%); Canada with 290 (4,44%); Portugal with 287 (4,39%); United Kindom with 284 (4,35%) and the United States with 228 (3,49%)

Starting Points.

Most of the pilgrims received during the month of August started their Way to Santiago in: Saint Jean Pied de Port, 1.543 (15,45 %); Sarria, 1.222 (12,23%); Roncesvalles 845 (8,46%); León 674 (6,74%); Cebreiro 517 (5,17%), Le Puy 466 (4,66%), Pamplona 458 (4,58%); Ponferrada 435 (4,35%); Astorga 430 (4,30%), Burgos 352 (3,52%), etc.

The Chosen Routes.

Most of the pilgrims chose the French Way with 8.332 (83,43%); followed by the Portuguese Route with 619 pilgrims (6,19%), the Silver Way has been chosen by 530 pilgrims (5,30%), the Northern Way with 342 (3,42%), and the Primitive Way with 82 (0,82%) pilgrims.

Guides to the Camino de Santiago

I must be very brave (or crazy) to attempt walking my camino without a guide. It is not that I did not try to find one, but that I can't find any at the bookstores. And between my final decision to embark on this journey to the time I start walking was less than 2 weeks, not enough time to have any books ordered online that can be delivered on time to Singapore. In any case I thought, how hard can it be? Just follow the waymarkers or yellow arrows, or just follow other pilgrims along the way, so many internet sites on the camino says...

But I was glad that they sell guides books on the camino in Roncesvalles where I began my journey. A history buff like me would miss out on many things along the way without the guide. Information on which towns has an albergue (and the number of beds), elevation maps to make you cringe ('Oh my gosh, 700 meters climb in 4 km'), and so forth.

I paid 22 euros for this guide book in Roncesvalles. I just found that Amazon UK is charging 23.70 pounds for it! If you can find for less, I highly recommend this guide.

Alternatively, the Confraternity of Saint James in the UK has the "The Camino Francés, 2006" for only 6 pounds (minus the shipment). The Confraternity also have guides to the other Camino Routes. Those guides are hard to find since they are not as popular as the Francés (French) route.

In essence, any guide on the camino should be fine as long as:

1. They are regularly updated.


2. They have a distance map.


3. Elevation map.


4. Albergue and/or lodging information.


5. Some history and practical advise along the camino.

Buen Camino!

Miracles of Sant'iago

This CD just got delivered to my home this evening. I bought it from Amazon. It is essentially music from Book 1 of the Codex Calixtinus. This is one of the oldest polyphonic chant in the style of Aquitanian or florid organum.

Incidentally, Book 5 of the Codex Calixtinus is the original 12th century pilgrim's guide by Aymery Picaud describing the road to Santiago and all the towns and villages along the way. It is still use as a reference for all modern Camino de Santiago travel guide.

Why I walk the Camino?

(Puente la Reina)

Ironically, the story begins 4 years ago while I was driving in northern Spain when I almost knock down a couple of peregrinos trying to cross the road. Many signs along the road say 'Camino de Santiago'. I figured that since I am heading that way, I may as well go and find out more about it. In Santiago de Compostela, right in front of the Cathedral, I met an Austrian couple who had just finished their Camino. From them, I found out that it was not for religious reasons but personal and spiritual reason that they embarked on their journey, a journey which took them about a month to complete. Something in my head tells me I need to do it. That day, I looked at the Cathedral saying that I will be back again, and the next time I will be walking instead.

Four years later, I finally did it!

The timing couldn't be more perfect. I'd just turned 40 a year ago and was also looking for a new direction in my life. The Camino may not have given all the answers I am looking for, but it has certainly changed the way I look at life.

And a lot more...

You know you are Peregrino when...

10. You do the peregrino dance (like walking on broken glass) from the blisters on your feet when you move to and from the bathroom.

9. You realized that you can experience typhoon strength winds without going to Asia.

8. You walk 5 kms every morning for your first cup of coffee.

7. Like the real world, the camino goes up and down.

6. And like the real world, you hate going down.

5. And while you try to understand why there is pain in a particular part of your body, the next day the pain has shifted its location.

4. You buy cigarettes from a vending machine, and stamps from a tobacco shop.

3. You don't feel excited sleeping with many women (or men) in the same room.

2. You wish everything in life can be marked with a simple yellow arrow.

And the number one is....

1. Standing up after a long meal, you face winces from the strain on your legs as you take another 2 more seconds to balance your body. The look on your face.... priceless!

Fellow Peregrina!

I have found the site of a fellow peregrina from Ontario Canada.

Congradulation to Josephine for succeeding on your 4th try!
(she's the one on the far right)



Link

Josephine carried a huge backpack (for her size) on the Camino. The first time I saw her (from behind) I could only see a moving backpack. Although her walking pace is slow, she made a point to start really early in the morning (5 am?). On top of that, Josephine finished her Camino 1 day ahead of me.

People that I have met on my Camino

"You are never alone in the Camino, unless you choose to..."

Thanks for making my Camino special!

* Unfortunately not everyone is on my phone camera.

Post Camino Blues

That's what I am suffering from now.

"It's hard to start a normally life after the camino" - in an email from Rosalinda (an Italian peregrina I met in the Camino)

I missed the walking, the simple life, the scenery, the birds singing...

I have even walked to my Tai Chi lessons at the club and back every Friday. But it is not the same...

I have decided now to plan for my next camino. It will probably be from Le Puy in France to Roncesvalles in Spain where I have started my Camino. When will I do that? I am still not sure, but will probably happen within the next few years. But first, I have to polish up my French, which at this moment is pretty much non-existent.

Babel Fish Translation

To make it easier for non-english speaker to read this blog, I have added the Babel Fish translator on the sidebar. Click on the language flag of your choice and this page will be translated in your language.

Translation is an art. So don't be surprise if the translation appears to be weird or not so accurate. Still, it is better than nothing.

Youtube video about the Camino

A 10 min video about the camino on Youtube. I think this is part of a feature length video that you can order as a dvd. It is one of the better videos that I have seen about the camino. I can relate to every single scene and almost every location in that video.