I've walked my camino for the second time, the first on the road and the second on the web. My regular post will end here. From time to time I might add a few camino related articles. Until my next journey, Buen Camino!
Below is a tabblo that I've created from some of the leftover pictures that I have taken. Enjoy.
After Muxia, it's a quick stop at Padrón. Padrón is a day's walk from Santiago.
And Padrón's religious importance? This was where the body of St. James after his martyr was suppose to have been disembarked after being brought back to Spain from Jerusalem.
View of Padrón
A closer view with church of Santa Maria de Iria on top.
My next stop after Fisterra is Muxia. According to legend, the Virgin Mary put into port her stone boat in Galicia to encourage St. James in his preaching in Spain. The spot is now the sanctuary of Nosa Señora da Barca.
The lighthouse at the edge of Muxia.
The sanctuary of Nosa Señora da Barca.
Another view.
Beautiful Galician coastline, taken from the sanctuary.
Fisterra (or Finisterre) is the end of the world during the medieval times prior to Columbus's discovery of the New world. Many pilgrims in the past continued their journey to Fisterra (another 3 days). There they will pick up dead clam shells along the coast to prove that they had been to the ocean.
I had plan a 5 days buffer for my journey and had actually arrived in Santiago 1 day earlier. Unfortunately I couldn't walk to Fisterra because to my ankle.
Instead, I'd managed to rent a car in Santiago to be returned to Madrid 6 days later (my flight departing Spain), giving me more than ample time to explore Galicia.
My first stop. Fisterra.
Finally, after 2 days of pain I've arrived at Santiago de Compostela.
In a way I felt an emptiness as I did not want it to end. That's when I realized that the camino is the journey, not the destination.
Melide is the last place that I took pictures other than Monte do Gozo. It is two days away from Santiago and my ankles was killing me (later discovered to be Tendonitis). Limping into town, many pilgrims told me to stop walking as they can see I was in pain with every step I took. I asked them what they would in my shoes so close to Santiago? Immediately there was an understanding. Nothing will stop me from completing my pilgrimage, which I did 2 days later.
Bridge outside Melide.
Pilgrims taking a rest in the middle of this small city.
What's a Spanish town without churches and cathedrals?
A cat send off for the pilgrims the next morning.
The walk in the morning to Portomarin was dreamy, especially in the fog. Later, I heard that the old Portomarin was flooded after a dam was built nearby and this is the new Portomarin. Some pilgrims claimed that they can still see the old houses underwater. Too bad I did get to see it.
It's not the clouds below but a fog blanket.
Fog and rainbow, like a fairy tale.
The bridge crossing to Portomarin.
The Gate of Portomarin after the bridge.
Iglesia de Portomarin. With a pilgrim statue and a life pilgrim posing.
The narrow bridge crossing out of Portomarin.
A Pilgrim crossing the bridge.
Shot taken from the middle of the bridge. It will be almost noon before the flog dissipated.
From Sarria, it is less than 120 km to Santiago. This is the last major city/town for pilgrim to start walking to Santiago in order to get their compostela (minimum 100 km on foot, 200 km on a bicycle). The city knows it, and that is why there are so many shops catering to walking/hiking gears.
The city from the top of the hill.
Church of San Salvador. With well drawn pilgrim murals.
The last building on the way out of Sarria. The Convent of La Magdalena.
The wet climate of Galicia made it appears almost magical.
Granite church before Samos.
Even the roof tiles here are granite due to the ample rainfall in this region. 
Tiny shelter, probably in reverence to a local Saint.
Archway after Sarria.
A Brazilian pilgrim told me in O Cebreiro that if I could, I should stay in Samos next. The albergue is on the monastery and it would be a good experience to stay there.
When I found Triacastela to be too commercial with many private albergues, I decided to push another 6 km to Samos.
Beautiful rainbow on the way down O Cebreiro.
Outside Samos. A nice view of the monastery.
The oldest monastery in Spain. Founded in the 6th century by St Martin of Braga.
A tour inside the monastery.
Unfortunately the tour did not include the library. During the medieval time, only the clergy had access to learning and books.
It was a very tough climb up the mountain to O Cebreiro for me. This was compounded by the heavy rain that day. Although the rain did stopped around mid afternoon, it was still cold up there even with the sun shining.
Up the steep gradient slope in the rain.
Enjoying the scenery on the way up O Cebreiro. Beginning to see ferns growing alongside the path, signs that says this is a wet region.
O Cebreiro. Gift shop. There are just as many tourist here as pilgrims.
Church of Santa Maria la Real in O Cebreiro. A miracle (transubstantiation) supposely occured here in the past.
The tavern. Excellent ambience and food. Finally in Galicia, I can taste food like pulpos (boiled octopus) and other delicacies from this region.
Old historical mountain hut with straw thatched roof (pallozas).
View from the albergue. What goes up must come down, something I don't have to worry about until the following day.
Found this excellent site with good resources on the Camino, especially for maps. You don't need to join the group to get these excellent resources. So good in fact, you probably won't need to buy a guide. However, it only covers Camino Frances.
Map of towns for every leg in the camino. (Camino Map1)
A different map with albergue/refugio information. (Camino Map2)
Maps of major cities in the Camino Frances. (Camino Map3)
Flash maps with elevation. (Flash Maps)
Villafranca del Bierzo is the last major place before O Cebreiro, a major climb up a steep incline the following day. So bad is the climb that in the 15th century under the bull by Calistus III, any pilgrim who is unable to complete their pilgrimage due to illness could achieve that same plenary indulgence if they cross the 'Puerta del Perdón', the door on the church of Santiago de Villafranca. This is a unique privilege in the Road to Santiago.
Church at the other side of the bank.
Church of Santiago de Villafranca.
The church door, 'Puerta del Perdón'. Closed as usual this time of day.
I decided to stay a few kilometers after Villafranca del Bierzo, in a small town called Pereje. That way I have a shorter distance to cover the following day when I climb up O Cebreiro. On the way out of Villafranca is this huge structure.
Looking at the contruction, it's probably a fort.
Down the mountain is the city of Ponferrada. Unfortunately in a few day's time it is another uphill climb. Meanwhile, this small city has lots to offer besides a good rest.
Fountains and statues in the city center.
View of the albergue and the mountains where I was earlier that morning. I can just imagine winter with snow on top of the mountains. Must be awesome sight.
Getting closer to Santiago. 202.5 km according to the marker at the albergue.
The beautiful Templar's castle (under renovation).
My fellow pilgrim Rosalinda wrote to me yesterday and told me she will be starting her Via di Francesco pilgrimage tomorrow. Here's what she wrote to me about her trip:
"...I'm going to start for the Via di Francesco a route in central Italy that run the historical sites where St. Francis lived. It begins in Tuscany-Sanctuary of la Verna cross Umbria (Città di Castello, Gubbio, Assisi, Spello, Spoleto, etc.) and ends in the forest of Poggio Bustone in Lathium. The path run through the forest, mountains and crosses medieval villages. It is a very spiritual camino with few people. I'll sleep in the convents or parish. The camino takes 16 days and is 350 km total. It is not long but harder than the camino the Santiago, at least that's what was written in my guide..."
Here's the route (in Italian) she will be taking for her pilgrimage for St. Francis.
I wish her a good pilgrimage and is secretly jealous that she is starting her second camino so soon after Santiago. Hopefully when she is back she can share her experience on her Camino de San Francisco.
Molinesca is beautiful. My plan was to stay there that day. However, the albergue is more than a kilometer outside the town. I decided to move on to Ponferrada for the night instead.
Slowly down the mountain. Molinesca in the distance.
Crossing the bridge.
A mountain stream cuts below the church. If only there is an albergue here.
"Can't lose weight? It's not your fault! Try the guaranteed way! Lose at least 10 kg in 30 days or your money back!"
Sounds familar? Well I did it by walking the camino. All 10 kg of it. Even the fitter pilgrims will still shred 3-5 kg. Not convinced? All weight loss ads will always have a 'before' and 'after' photo. Here's mine.
Before.
After. (26 days later. 3 days before Santiago)
You be the judge. The problem with weight loss is keeping it lost. I think I already gained back a third of it. Sigh...
After Majarin it is time to back down the mountain. At the foothill is Ponferrada, my rest stop for the day. There is a number of idyllic towns along the way, and the first one is El Acebo.
The city of Ponferrada in the valley took me at least half a day from here.
El Acebo, the first town on the way down the mountain.
Goat herder.
Perfect spot to rest and refuel. Finally the weather is sunny again.
Majarin is a ghost town. It seems to be abandoned and many buildings are missing the roof. All except one that is run by an interesting character. His name is Tomas, and he is a self proclaimed latter day Templar Knight.
Tomas seen her looking out for pilgrims. He (or his assistant) will ring the bell everytime a pilgrim is sighted.
Fascinating items crafted by Tomas.
There was a port of coffee and some biscuits on the table, donativo (donation base). It was just a plain coffee but after walking the whole morning in the cold through the desolated landscape, it tasted wonderful.
Signboards with distances. Another 222 km to Santiago.
Tomas runs a refugio. There is no electricity or running water here. Hygiene aside, I can really imagine staying here for the night would be quite an experience, especially at this attitude in the mountain (easily over a 1000 meters).
I didn't realize how small Foncebadón is.
There is only a few houses in this village.
Life must be tough up here in the mountains.
Looking back at the village. How much further is it to the famous Cruz del Ferro?
This is a lonely stretch of road.
About 2 kilometers later, the cross is in sight.
Old hiking boots, stuff dolls and everything mementos you can imagine. The hope and sorrows some pilgrims have brought to be placed here at the highest point in the camino.
Rabanal is a quiet town at the foothills. A perfect place to rest before the climb to Foncebadón, the highest point in the Camino.
At 2 pm the line started to form outside maybe the only English run albergue in the Camino (Confraternity of St James). It's only 20 beds so if you are not there early enough, you are better off staying at the other albergue in town. Tea is served at 4 pm, with biscuits. Very English.
The church is right next to the Albergue.
The church service mass was conducted in 3 languages. I heard English spoken during the mass for the first time in my camino. The other languages are Spanish and German. 2 priests were needed for that.
Like in many churches along the camino, St. James is always present.
(Isabel is the cool dudette with the shades in the middle)
1. Why Caminho de Santiago?
I don't know the answer to that ... I'm sorry. I've been thinking about this question and it's a difficult one for me. I just wanted walk the camino. Maybe it's because Santiago called me. I needed it, so I went!!! And It was the most beautiful experience for me. Today, I am a new person because of that.
(Don't worry, you don't really need a reason. In the movie, Forrest Gump just decided to start running across the US many times without a reason. It was his camino, and he gives no reason for it either. -ed)
2. Where did you hear about the Caminho?
The motivations that take the pilgrims to cover the way are varied. Between the Brazilians, the interest appeared with the bestseller from Pablo Coelho: "O Diário de um Mago", 1987. I did not read the book, but without a doubt, it has motivated many to make the Way. On the other hand, they say that the "it is you who gives the way the dimensions" and that “everybody that makes the journey searched for their own transformation, either personal or professional".
3. What have you gain from this experience?
One extraordinary experience of my life. The reflection, auto knowledge, adventure, religious… impossible not to leave "transformed".
4. I noticed that Brazilian constitute the biggest group of pilgrims outside Europe, with maybe Canadians from Quebec. Why is that so?
Mainly I think it is from Pablo Coelho's book. In Brazil, there are some associations (17 in the whole country) to help and inform pilgrims on the Way. I first encountered it via a news article on the television and got interested. I participated in the meetings and made preparation for the Way. I have notice of that the Brazilians, together with the Spaniard, Frenchmen, forms one of the biggest groups of pilgrims. I know that the average number of Brazilians walking the camino monthly consist of more than 150 pilgrims. When I made the Way in May/06 I found about 40 Brazilians in Santiago in the weekend I arrived. I organized a meeting in front of Cathedral that Sunday. I do not know what it takes for the Brazilians to make the Way: religious, mysticism or perhaps combination with the tast of adventure.
The Brazilians do not possess an ethnic identity, we are a mixture of many races.
(Very true. I was mistaken for a Brazilian by another Brazilian on the first day of my camino. Me, an Asian guy. No one from Europe will ever make that assumption. -ed)
The only thing that identifies us, beyond the language is that we are courageous. We share a common slogan: "I AM BRAZILIAN AND I NEVER EVER GIVE UP"
(Woohoo! Yeah! Makes me want to do the Samba ... if only I know how -ed)
Astorga is astounding. Another one of my favorite stop on my camino, Astorga is serene despite it being a medium size city. A perfect pilgrim stop. A beautiful view before arriving, superb buildings and architecture, and very pilgrim friendly.
The cross at Santo Toribio on the hill before Astorga. This is the where you get the first glimpse of the city.
San Justo del la Vega. A small town in before Astorga on the way down the hill.
Cathedral Santa Maria.
They built huge cathedral around this region.
Again, I can't fit this single building into the picture.
Cathedral with the Episcopal palace in the backdrop.
Beautiful carved pillars outside the cathedral.
The old Roman city wall.
The Episcopal Palace. Another Antoni Gaudi's fairytale castle design. And YAPM inside. (Yet Another Pilgrim Museum)
Outside and across the road writing my journal for the day. The trees in this picture has cotton-liked flowers.
Finally I found a spot where I can capture the whole cathedral into this picture.
Plaza Mayor. English translation, 'greater seat'. It's more like 'downtown'. Almost every city in Spain has it.
A small chapel. Taken from the albergue I stayed in Astorga.
A nice quiet park outside the albergue.
My peregrino interviews series are not over yet. I am still waiting for the entry from Brazil. In the meantime, here's a picture of the bunch that gathered for a group photo outside the cathedral in Santiago the day after my arrival.
They are a patriotic bunch. While some items may be missing from their backpacks, their country flag is definitely not one of them.
(via Wulfweard)
Funny. Looks like Pamplona during the festival of St. Fermin (running of the bulls).
After León, the camino splits into 2 separate paths only to be joined later at Hospital de Órbigo. Places with 'Hospital' name along the camino usually meant that the pilgrims during the middle ages was protected in this area by the Order of St. John, ironic since the legacy in the modern day are mostly associated with St. John hospital and ambulances. Back then they were knights, much like the defunct Knights Templar.
A town before Hospital de Órbigo with underground cellar for wines. No, it's not where the seven dwarfs lived.
Right before the Puente de Órbigo (bridge). It's got to be the longest bridge in the whole of Camino Frances.
The beginning of the bridge. Below, the river Órbigo.
The bridge goes all the way to the buildings at the back.
Church of la Trinidad (Trinity).
Founded way back during the Roman times as a settlement for Legio VII Germina, the city had a couple of name changes before it becomes just León. It's a major big city along the Camino besides Burgos.
The old city wall still visible today.
The cathedral, Santa Maria de la Regla. It's huge!
View from the side.
I could barely fit the view onto my phone camera, which is by default slightly wide angled. Nice location to have my afternoon coffee and to write my journal.
Entrance of the cathedral. It's got to be one of the best Gothic church in Spain.
Inside the cathedral.
Again, couldn't fit everything into this picture.
Just can't get enough of this majestic cathedral.
San Isidore.
