From the phonecam of el Peregrino
A nice statue in Taboada to remind me that Santiago is very close.
Saturday, May 31, 2008
Day 37 - Silleda
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
Another view of the Ponte Taboada before Silleda as there is nothing really significant there in the modern town. That's Michael from UK in the foreground and Ivan from Slovania in the background.
Day 36 - Castro-Dozón
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
Nothing much in this town. 2 bars and this provisional albergue. It's like sleeping in a cargo container with bunk beds.
Monasterio de Oseira
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
Would be wonderful if I can visit the inside. But I had spend too much time at the cafe and just after 12 pm found it was closed from 12-15 pm.
Cea - Dinner
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
That's Lena from Finland at the corner. She had picked wild mushrooms from Ourense to Cea and has made a wonderful dinner for us with cream and potatoes. We supplied the wine and bread. Interestingly Lena only speaks Spanish (and Finnish) as she was was working with missonaries to South America in her past. She speaks no English but she does understand most of what I say.
Cea - Pan de Cea
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
Famous for it's bread, it is a hearty, darker bread that is baked in small batches the traditional way for more than 700 years. However, it does get hard within a day, and after 2 days may even take your teeth out.
Day 35 - Cea
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
This had to be the best albergue in Galicia. A modern interior with facilities, very warm inside, a veranda outside on the second floor and even a horreo to match.
Italian pilgrrims on bikes
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
Augustino and friend. Thanks to them I got one of my walking pants that I have left at the albergue.
Ourense - Puente Viejo
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
Leaving Ourense with the extremely high medieval bridge.
Wednesday, May 28, 2008
Ourense - Hot Spring
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
One of the 3 hot spring in the outdoor by the river with hot showers for you
to clean yourself before you go in. The adjusted temperature in the pool is
only 39-40 degrees. This is too cold for those used to the Japanese hot
spring. Was told by a German pilgrim that the temperature is quite normal
even in Germany. Got out after 15 mins. It was an interesting experience
though.
Tomorrow, depending on the weather, I will decide whether to stop in Cea, or
further on to the monastery. Still not decided to reach Santiago in 4 or 5
day's time.
Ourense - Tram to Hot Spring
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
The train to the hot spring near the end of the city. The ride is 0.73 euro
each way, the hot spring is free.
Ourense - Cathedral
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
Nice Kebab store right where I took the photo. Perfect food for the
afternoon after the walk. This is the first time that there is no free
internet at the library. I need to have residence card and credentials to
log in for the internet. Bummer! Had to go to a cybercafe. 1 euro for 30
mins. Bah!
Day 34 -Ourense
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
Ourense is a big city. Just over 100 km, this is the last place to start
walking to Santiago and still get your compostela (minimum 100 km on foot,
200 km on bicycle). The city is a little hilly (like San Francisco),
ironically the albergue is right next to the cemetery San Fransisco. This
city is founded by the romans (Aquae Urentes). Aqua? Water? You guess it.
Hot springs. I'm taking the 6 pm bus from Praza Maior (Plaza Mayor) to the
springs which I was told is free! This body needs some hot spring water
badly. More information later.
Tuesday, May 27, 2008
Day 33 - Xunqueira de Ambía
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
Nice town with a library (for internet, hehe). Another over 30 km day, all thanks to having a menu lunch that allowed me to walk further in this weather. Will take it easier tomorrow with only 22 km to Ourense. I need the extra time in the afternoon to look around this city, do some overdued laundry, and to buy socks (the ones I am wearing are disintegrating).
Horreos
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
You know you are in Galicia when you start seeing these Horreos everywhere. They are elevated to keep the corn dry and away from mice. They come in all different sizes.
Albergueria
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
More climbing today. At the top is the town of Albergueria. No albergue, but a cafe full of concha shells (symbol of St. James). Was told I am the first chinese there, though there were Japanese and also Korean. I have signed my name on a shell to add to his collection.
Much better weather today
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
Only rained intermittently. The wet climate of Galicia favors white wine. Had a taste today at the bar. Very good! For some reasons, they are not exported. So it's time to drink more white, which should go very well with the seafood here.
Day 32 - Laza
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
The town where during the week of Lent, the festival has people with a big mask and a stick. When they hit you with it you are not suppose to retaliate. Probaby pagan in origin.
And the sky cleared
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
Even if it is only for 5 minutes so I can see the beautiful green mountains with many hamlets along the way. It makes the journey today worthwhile.
Against my better judgement
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
The weather has turned even worst today. Either I stay in a hostal, waste the day and wait it out, or.....
Oh great. Not only am I wet, freezing cold, now I can't even see! And to add more punishment to myself, it was a more than 30 km day to Laza. I am betting that the lower altitude of Laza (just over 400 meters) might make things better.
Sunday, May 25, 2008
Another crossroad in A Gudiña
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
Left to Verin (about 35 km longer) and right to Laza (where I will be taking tomorrow hopefully). Even at this altitude, the weather is extremely cold (very unusual for this time of the year). I can't even type this properly as my hands are numb standing outside the local university near the albergue where there is an open wlan.
Day 31 - A Gudiña
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
Galicia at last! Where many towns starts with and 'A' or 'O'. A typical modern Galician town with a long main street along the side of the mountain. Reminds me of A Fonsagrada, the first town in Galicia along the Camino Primitivo. The rain, wet ground and the freezing wind is geeting into me. Will take a rest day if this keeps up. In any case I am 2 days ahead of schedule.
Before Galicia
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
Almost the top of the mountain looking back. Altitude of at least 1300 meters. That two similar height peaks in 2 days. The highway goes into a tunnel about 100 meters underneath. The other side behind me is Galicia.
Lubián - Albergue
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
Luckily there is a portable heater to dry the clothes and especially my wet boots.
Day 30 - Lubián
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
Nice little town to take refuge from the day's walk. The animals are kept at the ground floor while the people live upstairs. Photo taken near the albergue, the first house in this village.
After Requejo
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
A nice day for climbing? Not! Cold, wind that is defintely below 10 c, and very wet. Galicia is still one day away. Already ferns can be seen even days before. With slate roof on some of the houses, one thinks they are already in Galicia.
Friday, May 23, 2008
Puebla de Sanabria
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
A well preserved fortified medieval town with cobblestone streets that slopes up to the fort and church on the hilltop. It's definitely a tourist spot (It has a Parador). Another reason why I ended the day here even when there is no albergue is that it makes the plan stops in the remainder of the camino much easier.
Day 29 - Puebla de Sanabria
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
Can't believe I ended up walking 42-44 km today! The many lovely villages, the big menu lunch, even the cold wind and the rain ironically helped. Still, I was tired when I arrived at 7.30 pm. No albergue in this tourist town so I am putting up in a nice tourist hostal (with free wifi). In any case I think deserved it after all this walking.
Otero de Sanabria
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
So many nice things to see today, here a wood carving of seven sinners roasting in hell. Helps put one's mind away from the cold and the rain. The weather has been colder and wetter than expected.
San Salvador de Palazuelos
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
There are like 9 villages after Mombuey before Puebla de Sanabria, each just a few km apart. It's been raining on and off in the afternoon.
Au Revoir Pierre and Solange
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
Only 18 km for them today. They are taking it easy and plan to be in Santiago de Compostela on the 5th #une.
Mombuey
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
After walking almost 9 km, this is a great place to have a break from the cold for coffee and also to stock up more food since today's is Friday.
Thursday, May 22, 2008
Day 28 - Rionegro del Puente
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
A nice albergue in this small town, the view from the 2nd floor of a very
well equipped albergue. 28 km today which is just nice. I will be hitting
the mountain crossing I think in 2 days.
On the other side of the dam
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
The water is cool but very refreshing, especially from my feet.
Wednesday, May 21, 2008
Bodega
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
I visited the Domingo's bodega using his bicycle. It was not easy as I have to go against a bit of uphill and crosswinds. There are many bodegas around here. This is a typical small bodega next to Domingo's. They are mostly underground with machines to process the wine and also as a cellar to keep the wine.
Day 27 - Santa Croya de Tera
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
After 2 days of over 30 km walk per day, I've decided to take it easy today. Just under 22 km. This private albergue is run by Domingo and Anita right at the edge of the town. Anita cook a nice lunch and dinner. Domingo has a bodega about 2 km away. The wine here comes from his bodega and it's free flow in this albergue!
Day 26 - Tábara
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
The beautiful Iglesia of San Salvador is currently covered and under restoration. Here is the lavadero outside the albergue. This is the way the Spaniards have wash their clothes for hundreds of years.
Rio Esla
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
The morning was so misty the visibilty was like less than 50 meters. Luckily it cleared a few hours later when I crossed the river Esla and walked along the banks of the river. A perfect place to stop to look at the stork catching fishes along the river.
Granja de Moreruela
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
Here in the town is the crossroad. The Roman road goes north to Astorga joining the Camino Frances or west to Ourense. I will be heading west then north again to Santiago.
Day 25 - Riego del Camino
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
Nothing much in this one bar town other than a place to sleep after the rain and 35 km of walking.
Castrotorafe
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
The ruins of a former fortified medieval town founded by the Knights of the Order of Santiago.
Montamarta
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
Took shelter from the rain and tiny hail pellets outside the Ayuntamiento of Montamarta. This is the iglesia on leaving the town after the rain. Unfortunately it rained again later.
Roales del Pan
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
This is Jose. He has in his garden not only vegetables, but statues made with mythical or biblical themes. They are all made by him in his spare time at the tiny shed beside his garden. There is even a statue of a peregrino and a peregrina (not shown).
Sunday, May 18, 2008
Zamora - Iglesia de Santiago del Burgo
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
There are so many Romanesque Iglesia here. And the people lived so close to it. (picture). There is both a Santiago Matamooros and Santiago the pilgrim inside. Was prepared to go a hostal when I found the albergue (new this year) next to San Cipriano. Just opened this January, it has 3 floors and 4 euros to stay. There are just too many beautiful Iglesias here to post. I will need to come back here again. Very surprise there are very few tourist in this beautiful city.
Day 24 - Zamora
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
This is the most beautiful city. I have seen so far in this camino, and there are not many left. Since it's Sunday, the internet in the library is closed, but luckily the open wlan signal is still there. Had to ask the security guard to let me sit at the staircase (where the signal is strongest).
Day 23 - Villanueva de Campeán
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
A one horse (bar) town. Just 19 km to Zamora. Nice albergue (not in my guide book). The people in the village have placed many milarios with a scallop shell and the village's name before and after the road to welcome pilgrims. Just me and the French couple (Pierre and Solange) in this albergue. At least they serve dinner at the bar. I'm starving after the long walk.
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Walking in the afternoon
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
Glad I decided to walk 33 km, plus 4 km detour to see another castle. I've never seen clouds so beautiful before, and it runs all the way to the horizon.
Friday, May 16, 2008
Calzada de Valdunciel - At the library
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
Here's Maria, the very friendly librarian of this town. Maria even took a
picture of me. I had to reciprocate. This library's wlan is by Rural
Internet, and is not open. Therefore I had to update the posting manually
from the PC you see here.
Calzada de Valdunciel - Albergue
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
A great albergue here. Small (8 beds), with a living room, donativo, kitchen
and a small area outside to dry the laundry. Don't you wish every albergue
is like this?
Day 22 - Calzada de Valdunciel
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
Decided to stop here after 15 km. Got lost leaving Salamanca (another km or
so) in the rain and after fighting with the mud, I've decided to stop early
for the day. Next stop is another 20 km again and I am not in the mood to do
a 35 km today.
The Meseta
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
Just after the rain stopped. Some parts of the trails are so muddy I felt l
am carrying a brick on each foot. Slipping and sliding. As much as I hated
this, it is part of the camino. One can't expect good weather all the time.
The return of the birds after the rain quite an experience.
Breakfast of Champions
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
Churros (fried dough, similar to the Yu Tiao from home) and Cafe con Leche.
I'm from a place where we eat oily stuff for breakfast, so this is just
great. Especially on this rainy morning.
Thursday, May 15, 2008
Farewell to a few pilgrims
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
Michael and Matilda. And Manfried. From Germany. They will be staying an additional day in Salamanca. Especially to Manfried, who had ended up every day with me in the same albergue or hostal since my first day at the camino. Will never forgot the first day when I got lost in Triana (Sevilla) looking for the way out of the city when someone behind me asked "Are you a pilgrim?". We managed to find the way out of Sevilla together. Buen Camino Amigos y Amiga.
Salamanca - The Frog
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
In this wall if you can find a frog without the help of the locals, you will have good luck. This is my second time in Salamanca and I am determined not to leave without knowing where it is. Found it! With the help from a local unfortunately. I've decided to move on as I do not have many days left before the reunion at Santiago. Now it's time for dinner and some of the best jamon in Spain. It's beginning to rain again. The wind is really cold. Weather is bad these few days.
Salamanca
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
Too many pictures to post. As I have relied mostly on the free internet in the libraries, how appropriate that this one in Salamanca has Concha (Scallops) shells all over the building. Makes a pilgrim feels so attached.
Day 21 - Salamanca
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
Just love the sound of it. Salamanca! The albergue is open only at 4 pm. Have to lugged my rugsack around for over 2 hours. Still have no decided if I would stay another day. This is my second time in this city, first time as a pilgrim.
Day 20 - San Pedro de Rozados
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
It's now the mid point for the Camino Via de la Plata. All these towns have no libraries, or library with no internet. urgh. Well, tomorrow will be at Salamanca.
Day 19 - Fuenterroble de Salvatierra
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
Still in the mountainous area that looked more like Umbria or the foothills of the Alps than Spain. Wind is cold and raining in the afternoon. Slept here in an albergue run by a parish priest. Cooked lunch again. Note to myself: Red sauteed pimientos is great for pasta. Slept in a cold room with 1, maybe 2 field mouse trying to get at my food. Had to put them back into my rugsack. Sorry, no cheese for you Speedy Gonzales.
Day 18 - La Calzada de Béjar
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
My mistake. Baños de Montemayor is the last town in Extremadura. Today ended just around 20 km in this nice private village albergue. Also needed the time to dry my clothes.
Monday, May 12, 2008
Baños de Montemayor
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
Just left Extremadura. The town is known for thermal spring bath. The landscape here is more like the foothills of the Pyrennes or Umbria than Spain. Thanks to the free wlan from the library of this town the last few posts.
Day 17 - Aldeanueva del Camino
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
Ended the day walking 40 km! 2 extra km for making the wrong turn (and bad signage). Albergue was full (only 8 beds) so had to take a hostal at the end of town. Too tired to do anything else for the day. The beds in the albergue in the Via de la Plata are limited and there is a group of six spanish pilgrims along my path the last 2 days and they walk fast and very early. Need to find a way today to avoid ending at the same spot.
Arco de Cáparra
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
The symbol on the camino markers in Extremadura, and probably the Via de la Plata. This is a 2nd century Roman town that is currently under excavation. Ate my lunch at the spot the photo is take. What a view!
Day 16 - Carcaboso
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
A wet afternoon and 10 km after Galisteo. A rest stop for a long 38 km the next day. Less if one is willing to make a few km detour to a hostal.
Saturday, May 10, 2008
Galisteo Wall
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
View from the wall. This post is thanks to the Casa de Cultura / Biblioteca (library), the white below that has an open wlan even though it's closed until the evening. Have another 10 km to go in the drizzling rain. Getting really cold, burrrrr.
Galisteo
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
A walled city bulit by the Almohads (Moors) with 11 meters high wall. Had to detour almost 2 km from San Gil to see it.
Day 15 - Grimaldo
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
A tiny town with 5 houses on both sides of the street and an albergue next to the only cafe. Stayed here since Cañaveral does not offer a refuge for pilgrims.
Cañaveral
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
No rockets here but lots of chimneys and old folks. The famous cape were probably named after the town when the Spanish were discovering Florida.
Day 14 - Albergue del Embalse de Alcántara
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
Some backlog. This is the beautiful sunset view from the albergue along the reservoir that joins 2 rivers, one of them Rio Tajo that flows out to Portugal.
Wednesday, May 7, 2008
How to access the internet from the camino?
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
Find the bibloteca (library). This one in Casar de Cáceres. They usually let you use their machine for free. May not be applicable for Camino Frances. Tried it in Camino Primitivo and now in Camino via de la Plata.
Day 13 - Casar de Cáceres
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
Nothing much in this town other than a stop before 35 km tomorrow with no towns in between. The albergue is nice with a small kitchen, but I am too lazy to do anything other than make tea.
Cáceres
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
Many tall towers built from the gold brought back from the New World by the conquistadors, many of them comes from this region. The towers looks very similar to some of the cities in Tuscany.
Tuesday, May 6, 2008
Valdesalor - Lodging
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
Ayuntamiento. A small meeting room to sleep in is on the second floor where the washed clothes are hanged outside. The 3rd floor is the library, where I am posting this from the free internet (also open wireless lan connection).
Day 12 - Valdesalor
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
Quaint little town 12 km before Cáceres. Sleeping in a meeting room at Ayuntamiento close to the white tower. Hot showers but limited space (4 mattress).
Miliario - Roman Milestone
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
A Roman mile is around 1,480 meters. They used to be all along the via de la Plata. Not many are left now.
Alcuéscar - Dinner for Pilgrims
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
Casa de la Misericordia de la Congregacion de Esclavos de Maria y los Pobres (that's a long name!)
Day 11 - Alcuéscar
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
Stayed at the monastery that also caters to the disabled. Donativo (donation based) which includes a hefty dinner. Please donate if you stay here to keep the tradition. Long day after walking 38 km.
Mérida - Acueducto de los Milagros
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
Aqueduct upon leaving the city the next morning. Really fell in love with this place. So many more pictures I took of this place.
Sunday, May 4, 2008
Day 10 - Mérida
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
Mérida (Auguatus Emerita) is fantastic. One can understand why the Romans chose this place as their capital of Lusitania. Arrived early walking only 16 km to visit the museum, bridge, amphitheatre, forum, temple, etc. Have taken many pictures. Tomorrrow will past the impressive aqueduct on the way out of town.
Saturday, May 3, 2008
Day 9 - Torremejía
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
Flat and endless vineyard for 28 km. Only 16 km to Mérida. Stayed at the only hostal in town as the albergue is closed (picture). This town looks desolated, like a western town. But this is Spain, so there are still bar cafe in almost every corner. Since it's Saturday, the Bibloteca or Casa de Cultura is closed (no internet).
Friday, May 2, 2008
Day 8 - Villafrance de los Barros
A stop before a long walk in the vineyard tomorrow. Met a member of the Amigos de Camino de Santiago on the way to town and was given a map and places to stay. Chose one and found that it wasn't a hostal but the house of an old couple. The lady of the house spoken very good English. She was from Cuba, was working in Minnesota and had moved back here to her husband's home town after a bad accident that crippled him almost 40 years ago.
Their house is like a memorabilia of so many interesting things. And she has so many stories to tell which I do not have the time now to put into this blog.
That's her in the picture on the left. She's so beautiful when she was young, don't you think?
This blog has just gotten linked by The Association of the Friends of Camino de Santiago of Madrid
On the Asociación de Amigos del Camino de Santiago de Madrid's site, at the right column near the end it says 'Blog, in English'.
Thursday, May 1, 2008
Shades are a premium here in via de la Plata
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
A place to sit are also hard to find. Nothing like having a yellow arrow pointing at your butt.
Day 7 - Zafra
From the phonecam of el Peregrino
A number of albergue is closed this year, including here in Zafra. Too many on again off again albergue here in Extremadura. At least the Hostal Carmen I am staying has free wifi (even in the room!). Just has to ask the reception for the security code.
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