Tuesday, April 18, 2017

Camino Mozarabe - Day 2 - Moclin

After breakfast in the albergue, started walking just before 8 am. Gave extra donation to albergue for the Lolo's coffee maker. I used one capsule last night and one this morning.

The guide only shows the alternative route (that's what it says on the pdf) going along the valley of the two hills parallel me near the road. My map overlay shows the original route via the access road up along the hill. Since today is short I took the latter high ground instead.

From Pinos Puente to Olivares the olive trees was endless on all sides. I bet that the olive oil is Andalucia's single most produce crop.

Saw the ruin castle of Moclin within an hour of walking. It would be many hours later before I arrived. Had a break for food under an olive tree overlooking the castle (on the left knoll) just before the route goes down to Olivares and contemplating on the steep climb ahead. Down to Olivares, cross the stream, a quick coffee and started the climb at high noon.

Was it just me or does the Andalucian sun seems brighter and more fierce than the mesata on my walk earlier? I normally don't need to wear shades but the sun here are quite glaring to my eyes. The climb was steep with almost no shade. I stopped for a quick pause whenever I see any shade. There's a saying 'only mad dogs or Englishman' walking in the afternoon sun, you can also add pilgrims to the phrase.

Within the hour drench in sweat I am already up to Moclin. It felt like hours..... Total 16 km.

Same routine. Straight to the center, got a can to drink from the shop outside the town hall. Rested I went in the office to ask for accommodation. No albergue here, my map only shows Casa de la Placeta del Rincón and a hostal outside the town. The former is an extension building from a private resident and also the one that the person in the town hall recommended, close to the center (next street). Sweet!

Got there and the lady owner was still cleaning up. Told me to come back in half hour but I can leave my backpack there. A quick look shows it is a single unit with bath, kitchen, living/dining/sleeping area with makeshift divider. A queen size bed and a bunk bed. The registration on the door say occupancy of three. If no one else comes in today I am taking the big bed. 25 euros. Correction: I was wrong. It's 25 euros for the whole room/bath. When the lady came later in the evening to give my change, I ask for the Wi-Fi password and was let to another door up the steps. There I saw 3 more rooms (unoccupied with the same setup) where she gave me the password saying the signal doesn't go down to my room down the steps. She also said she only works here mainly cleaning. I think more as the reception in the other building was empty.

Went up to the castle and found that it was locked. Sign says it only opens on Sat and Sun (2 euros). Only for weekend tourist? The lower part of the castle is still accessible with a wonderful view of the Sierra Nevada. It's hard to take a picture during the day of that mountain range due to the sun and glare. It would be a wonderful spot for the evening, hopefully a better picture.

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