Saturday, April 28, 2018

Camino Portuguese - Day 17 - Rubiāes

18 km today. Short stage but with a big climb. Not crazy enough to do 38 km to Valença/Tui.
The thing about association or municipal albergue like in Ponte Lima are the number of beds in each room. The bigger they are, the earlier you get awoken by the noise from those early risers.
Didn't want to walk 800 meters back on the bridge just to have breakfast. A German pilgrim said there is a cafe 3 km along today's path. Yeah right. In the end it was more 6 km. Arghhh. That was way too long before I had my first cup of coffee. Two cups and lots of food later it was steep climb up to the top. I was impressed by the few cyclist that attempted the same path. At some of the steep rocky path they even had to carry their bikes up, the only time walking is a little faster than a bike, at least until the downhill part.
Good thing they had a support vehicle waiting for them at the top (no racks or panniers to weigh their bikes down). Still an awesome feat.
It's beginning to look like Galicia (north western Spain).
Gate barrier to keep the sheep on one side. They also harvest pine oil judging by the cuts in the bark of the tree although the scale is much smaller than in Spain.
A nice vista at the top, then it was downhill. My tendons have more issue with downhill than uphill. A few km later there was a cafe built just inside gate of a house along the path. They have a stone grill at the gate for bbq chicken. The smell is already enough for me to have them. Olivier, who was leaving after having the chicken said it was good. Half a small chicken with salad for 5.50 euros. A happy camper with just a few km more to Rubiāes.
There was an albergue there with a modern cafe, shop right before Rubiāes. Even with the added facilities, no more municipal albergue for me today. Ended up with a nice private albergue, Ninho Nest. Nice 200 years old house.
13 euros with breakfast, no need to walk for for breakfast in the morning or to to pay for it. It is indeed like a nest. One of the earlier arrivals I got a nice bed above the kitchen, next to Olivier (again I didn't know he was there, or other private albergue in Rubiāes, or had continued walking to Tui). Lucky for  me the moment I got in it started raining. The rain was not long, an hour or so, but for those attempting the longer distance today will surely regret walking on.
People from Denmark, Netherlands, France.... we all having afternoon tea with ginger, mint picked from the garden and honey.
Pretty soon the place is full. Less than 20 official nests in the multi-layered areas in the house wirh two toilets, it was full pretty fast. Aurelius the Brazilian also came here.
Very cosy here. The three of us share a load at the washer/dryer for 5 euros. (Pilgrims usually only have 3 sets, only 2 sets to wash) to be better for the environment and save money.
A husband and wife runs this private albergue. From some of the photos on the wall, I think he is also a musician.
Now a happy camper, even having  afternoon nap...

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